6th – 9th November

Lalibela lies to the North of Addis and is home to some of the most famous rock hewn churches of Ethiopia. It is by no means ‘off the beaten track’ but compared to the sights of Turkey, you almost feel alone. The town sits on a mountain top, overlooking valley in all directions and offers breathtaking views!

We were expecting the hassles to start here, but we were pleasantly surprised. Since the Bradt Guide was written in 2009 the government has tried very hard to clean up the streets and decrease the culture of begging. Unofficial guides try their luck but only half-heartedly, and the children who ask for money or pens can be easily deterred.

In fact, we found the people to be very friendly. We could not walk 10 metres without saying hello to someone or talking to a curious child. The people from the construction sites paused in their work to smile and wave. Voices called from houses above belonging to children frantically waving. Women and men smiled broadly when we greeted them and asked for nothing. I felt warm and fuzzy walking through the streets rather than harried and angry. Ethiopia continues to wow me!

The churches themselves were a site to behold. Built in the 10th century they are still in reasonably good shape and are also still in use. Priests and holy women sit in the churches praying as the tourists walk through, and women make holy bread outside. I shall let some of the photos speak for themselves.